Back

Newton Head

Pembroke South

User attention

There is a bird's nest on 'Right Crack' on the upper tier. This is the crack to the right of the prominent overhang.  Please avoid this route until the chicks fledge.

from 29/04/2026 to 01/08/2026

Steep and serious E face, but also good climbing on the lower tier at the W end where there is plenty to satisfy climbers up to E1. The E face is all E3-5. Routes up to 130ft. The upper tier has some pleasant easier climbing suitable for groups with easy access and a wide non-tidal ledge below.

The area from St Govan's East to Stack Rocks is part of a busy MoD firing range. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367. 
https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/castlemartin-firing-notice--2

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Ministry of Defence No. of Routes: 70
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SR9652492812

Parking and Approach

Park at St Govans car park. The first headland W. Abseil probably preferable to the Diff scramble down. Routes should be exposed even at high tide.

Group Advice

The upper tier is a popular site for group use with easy access and some good routes from Diff to Severe, however - this is usually shut due to firing midweek.

Area information

South Pembroke is one of the best sea cliff climbing areas in Britain featuring abseil approaches, amazing scenery, and a huge number of fantastic routes - it is also extremely important for wildlife, especially the nesting bird colonies. There are many special access arrangements and seasonal climbing restrictions. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. Pembrokeshire National Park produce a very useful leaflet with all the current restrictions- this is also available at the main car parks (St Govans, Stack Rocks, Broad Haven South and Stackpole Quey as well as in Mrs Weston's Cafe in Bosherton (note Pembroke nesting restrictions are complex and vary annually)). https://www.pembrokeshirecoast.wales/things-to-do/outdoor-activities/climbing/ Range East The area from St Govans East to Stack Rocks is part of a busy MoD firing range. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/castlemartin-firing-notice--2 West of Stack Rocks, the range is used for life firing. Non-firing dates for 2026 when range is open (may be subject to change) 6th December 2025 – 4th January 2026 27th February 2026 28th March – 12th April 2026 9th – 17th May 2026 Additional Closure Dates! CALFEX dates (Big MoD exercise, range east and west closed day and night excluding weekends) 26th May – 19th June 2026 To access Range West, an annual Range West briefing needs to be attended: Thursday 4th December 2025 – 18.00 Thursday 22nd January 2026 – 18.00 Saturday 21st February 2026 – 09.00 Thursday 19th March 2026 – 18.00 Friday 3rd April 2026 (Good Friday) – 09.00 Saturday 23rd May 2026 – 09.00 Thursday 25th June 2026 – 18.00 Saturday 25th July 2026 – 09.00 Since Easter 2013 year round access is allowed to Range West for briefed climbers, only on non-firing days (normally most weekends and Bank holidays 2 weeks at Easter and 2 weeks at Christmas and most of August). LIVE high explosive ammunition is fired on Range West and it is paramount that climbers (and all users) stay away from and DO NOT touch anything metal. For the same reasons belay stakes should not be placed. If you think belay stakes are required please contact the BMC who can arrange for stakes to be placed in a safe manner.

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

Report a page issue Print this article

Crag Update Feed

Use this feed to update other users about crag conditions or similar current information. Suggested updates to page information should be made using the ‘report a page issue’ button above.

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Submit
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
1
Anonymous User
10/05/2026
This comment is awaiting moderation, it will be reviewed
Awaiting moderation

Report a page issue

Please use this feedback form to raise any incorrect information on the page, advise any additonal information that should be included, or any page functionality issues.
Immediate crag updates should be submitted via the comments section at the bottom of the crag page. Any comments made through the page issue form will need to be moderated and will not be dealt with immediately.

    Newton Head

    Pembroke South