Symonds Yat

Wye Valley & Forest of Dean

User attention

Following a major rockfall in 2023 Forestry England successfully applied for access restrictions covering the slope and Public Right of Way beneath the crag. Public information relating to this is available on the Forestry England website.

 Summary of BMC initial comments on the closure:

While the restriction is in place the right of access under CRoW is suspended and climbers choosing to ignore it would therefore be trespassing.

Landowners cannot normally restrict CRoW access on the basis of hazards arising from natural features in the landscape. 

Following a Freedom of Information request submitted by a climber the BMC were able to study the report on which the current closures are based. The report outlined that these rocks are prone to continual erosion, which by nature cannot be predicted with total certainty, whilst highlighting which areas appear most and least prone to further erosion. It then goes on to state that these risks are unacceptable ones for climbers to take, and on this basis the whole crag should be restricted until this can be remedied. As rock climbers we understand these to be facts that are worked with to a greater or lesser extent on all crags. The BMC did not therefore consider the whole crag restriction justified or proportionate. Additionally, the BMC considered the commission and use of such a report by a major landowner to represent an unwelcome precedent for crag access generally. 

Update April 2025: Following on from a meeting in November 2024 a further has been had with Forestry England on 25th March. At this a timeline was confirmed for the planned works to go ahead. Due to the ‘once in a generation’ scale of the work required these will take until April 2026 to complete. A further extension of the CRoW closure has been sought to cover this period. The BMC appreciate this clarity on the duration of the work and the assurance by Forestry England that on completion the whole crag will be reopened for climbing. In light of this the BMC do not intend to oppose this extension. Furthermore, Forestry England’s obligation to complete the work within the budgetary period covered by the extension gives added assurance that this deadline will be adhered to. For the safety of both climbers and contractors the BMC will be fully supportive of a crag wide closure during operational site works. Outside of this phase but within the CRoW closure period potential for limited removal of restriction to some buttresses was discussed and a further update will be issued following completion of additional risk assessment by FE.

 

from 22/10/2024

Unquarried limestone escarpment in a picturesque situation above the River Wye.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Forestry Commission No. of Routes: 500
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1958
Grid Reference: SO560155

As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat when open is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.

Following the 2023 rockfall climbing is not advisable in the Russian Sector, the Black Tulip Sector, the Golden Fleece Sector and the Long Stone Area south of the Long Stone Pinnacle.

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall.  Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period. 

 

CRoW Information

Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.

Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.  

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12
Anonymous User
23/05/2018
One of the trees in the introductory rocks area has toppled from the top of the crag and is currently hanging upside down. That is one less tree to belay from.
Anonymous User
23/06/2018
There is a sign at the bottom of The Terrace saying thay there is very rare plant growing in the first pitch of Phizzog. A new acces is few meters to the right, starting at the base of the Russian and with grade VD.
Anonymous User
06/05/2019
Pair of geece nesting atop of the pinnacle, on the river side. I climbed vertigo and the pair seemed okay, but I kept well away. Belay from ledge just below the top
Anonymous User
05/06/2019
There is a notice in the Log Cabin Cafe stating that climbing at Introductory Rocks is closed due to unstable rock in danger of collapse above the northerly approach path.
Anonymous User
03/07/2019
There is a BMC sign and fence erected by the Forestry Commission to prevent climbing Funky Gibbon and adjacent routes, Introductory Rocks, due to the risk of rock fall from the loose block on the crux of Funky Gibbon.
Anonymous User
08/09/2019
Funky Gibbon area is fenced off due to unstable rock.
Anonymous User
21/05/2020
Main car park closed. You can park in the car parks near the Saracens Head. We used the 1st one £6 coins only. Others may take card or phone payment. 2 cars parked in entrance to main car park - double yellow but out of the way and looked ok plus avoids walk up from Saracens. Funky Gibbon still roped off.
Anonymous User
04/08/2020
Does anyone know if the introductory as area is open yet ? Thanks
Anonymous User
09/08/2023
Symonds Yat:
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid02t22cbzjLB1WWBtEvnkbdKVTT3WtVGUDGiq2xVLVM3BzWQ1sDYBHTue67VQfGaLbtl&id=100068865234115