Symonds Yat

Wye Valley & Forest of Dean

User attention

The following is from the Forestry England website: 

"Symonds Yat Rockfall update

Updated 1st August 2024

On 8 August 2023 a major rockfall took place from the cliffs at Symonds Yat Rock. Since then, we have asked all climbers to avoid using the area and the areas directly below the rockface. We have also had to formally close the public right of way leading down from Symonds Yat Rock to the River Wye (see map below).

We immediately sought professional ground engineering and geotechnical advice from a private consultancy firm. The consultant inspected the rockfall site and further parts of Symonds Yat Rock. As a result of this advice, we have put in place a Countryside and Rights of Way (CRoW) dedicated land closure to prevent climbers accessing the cliff face, and we will be keeping the public right of way closed for the foreseeable future. This action has significantly reduced the assessed risk as much as possible, as advised by our specialist consultants.

An estimated 20 tonnes of rock fell from the cliff face, and had it not been for the rock capture fence, the damage below could have been significant. The rock capture fence was in place for incidents like this, but the size of the fall was large enough to severely incapacitate the fence.

Why are we asking you not to climb at Symonds Yat Rock?

Since August 2023, there have been further rockfalls and so, on the advice of our engineering experts, we have closed the cliff face to climbers. This is for your safety and the safety of others. A closure has been issued by Natural England (case number 2024030132) and this prevents public access. This closure is in addition to the public right of way closure that is also in place along the footpath leading down to the river.  At the moment, we don’t know whether another rockfall will happen somewhere else along the cliff face and without mitigation strategies in place, we can't take this risk. 

Temporary repair of the rock capture fence has been completed, but this does not yet mean that climbing can resume in the area. The level of risk is still too high, and we still have other work to do based on recommendations given to us by our expert engineering consultants. This is a significant piece of work and so we don't have a timeline for this yet.

In the meantime, we thank you for your continued patience and co-operation."

 

BMC Comments:

The extended closure has a nominal expiry date of the of 31/03/25. At which point the restriction will have to be reviewed by the Relevant Authority and an extension applied for. In this case the Relevant Authority is the Forestry Commission, of whom Forestry England is an executive agency. No clear indication has been given regarding the duration of the closure.

While the restriction is in place the right of access under CRoW is suspended and climbers choosing to ignore it would therefore be trespassing.

Landowners cannot normally restrict CRoW access on the basis of hazards arising from natural features in the landscape. 

Following a Freedom of Information request submitted by a climber the BMC have been able to see the report on which the current closures are based. The report outlines that these rocks as a natural feature of the landscape are prone to continual erosion, which by nature cannot be predicted with total certainty, whilst highlighting which areas appear most and least prone to further erosion. It then goes on to state that these risks are unacceptable ones for climbers to take anywhere on the crag, and on this basis the whole crag should be restricted until this can be remedied. These are facts that are known to rock climbers and are worked with to a greater or lesser extent on all crags. As such the BMC consider the commission and use of this sort of risk assessment as justification for an open ended full ban by a major landowner to represent a serious precedent for crag access generally. The BMC does not consider the current restriction justified or proportionate.

Efforts are ongoing to challenge this decision and gain at least partial crag opening through addressing specific concerns where these can be justified. *The case number quoted by FE here is incorrect. The correct case reference number is 202400132

Note the bird restriction on White Wall is still valid please do not climb in this sector after 1st March

Update Nov24

A meeting between the BMC  with Forestry England took place early November to clarify the situation and gain an understanding of their plans and concerns. They outlined that because their geotechnical report highlighted unacceptable risks to the public and property below the crag, they felt obligated as the landowner to close access to all users until these risks could be addressed. Assurance was given that the ban would be temporary whilst they sought funding for the recommended rock stabilisation and fence upgrade work. Their wish was expressed that climbing could resume as soon as they could assess it as safe and reiterated that they don't hold climbers responsible in anyway.

It was stated that as the rock fall was ‘unexpected’ it would take time to obtain the significant funding required to carry out design works and to tender for contractors. Design work is expected to start soon, however for funding reasons the main work is unlikely to start until the next financial year (April 25 onwards). FE expressed commitment to address the situation as soon as possible, with a project team already engaged on the task. They agreed in principle to work with the BMC and BMC geotechnical experts to assess ongoing risk and potentially allow assistance with rock stabilisation work. Additionally, subject to further inspections, it may be possible to open access to low risk areas of the crag. 

 

from 22/10/2024

Unquarried limestone escarpment in a picturesque situation above the River Wye.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Forestry Commission No. of Routes: 500
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1958
Grid Reference: SO560155

As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat when open is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.

Following the 2023 rockfall climbing is not advisable in the Russian Sector, the Black Tulip Sector, the Golden Fleece Sector and the Long Stone Area south of the Long Stone Pinnacle.

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall.  Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period. 

 

CRoW Information

Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.

Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.  

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12
Anonymous User
23/05/2018
One of the trees in the introductory rocks area has toppled from the top of the crag and is currently hanging upside down. That is one less tree to belay from.
Anonymous User
23/06/2018
There is a sign at the bottom of The Terrace saying thay there is very rare plant growing in the first pitch of Phizzog. A new acces is few meters to the right, starting at the base of the Russian and with grade VD.
Anonymous User
06/05/2019
Pair of geece nesting atop of the pinnacle, on the river side. I climbed vertigo and the pair seemed okay, but I kept well away. Belay from ledge just below the top
Anonymous User
05/06/2019
There is a notice in the Log Cabin Cafe stating that climbing at Introductory Rocks is closed due to unstable rock in danger of collapse above the northerly approach path.
Anonymous User
03/07/2019
There is a BMC sign and fence erected by the Forestry Commission to prevent climbing Funky Gibbon and adjacent routes, Introductory Rocks, due to the risk of rock fall from the loose block on the crux of Funky Gibbon.
Anonymous User
08/09/2019
Funky Gibbon area is fenced off due to unstable rock.
Anonymous User
21/05/2020
Main car park closed. You can park in the car parks near the Saracens Head. We used the 1st one £6 coins only. Others may take card or phone payment. 2 cars parked in entrance to main car park - double yellow but out of the way and looked ok plus avoids walk up from Saracens. Funky Gibbon still roped off.
Anonymous User
04/08/2020
Does anyone know if the introductory as area is open yet ? Thanks
Anonymous User
09/08/2023
Symonds Yat:
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid02t22cbzjLB1WWBtEvnkbdKVTT3WtVGUDGiq2xVLVM3BzWQ1sDYBHTue67VQfGaLbtl&id=100068865234115