User attention
The following is from the Forestry England website:
"Symonds Yat Rockfall update
Updated 8th July 2024
On 8 August 2023 a major rockfall took place from the cliffs at Symonds Yat Rock. Since then, we have asked all climbers to avoid using the area and the areas directly below the rockface. We have also had to formally close the public right of way leading down from Symonds Yat Rock to the River Wye (see map below).
We immediately sought professional ground engineering and geotechnical advice from a private consultancy firm. The consultant inspected the rockfall site and further parts of Symonds Yat Rock. As a result of this advice, we have put in place a Countryside and Rights of Way (CRoW) dedicated land closure to prevent climbers accessing the cliff face, and we will be keeping the public right of way closed for the foreseeable future. This action has significantly reduced the assessed risk as much as possible, as advised by our specialist consultants.
An estimated 20 tonnes of rock fell from the cliff face, and had it not been for the rock capture fence, the damage below could have been significant. The rock capture fence was in place for incidents like this, but the size of the fall was large enough to severely incapacitate the fence.
Why are we asking you not to climb at Symonds Yat Rock?
Since August 2023, there have been further rockfalls and so, on the advice of our engineering experts, we have closed the cliff face to climbers. This is for your safety and the safety of others. A closure has been issued by Natural England ( case number 20231000023 ) and this prevents public access. This closure is in addition to the public right of way closure that is also in place along the footpath leading down to the river. At the moment, we don’t know whether another rockfall will happen somewhere else along the cliff face and without mitigation strategies in place, we can't take this risk.
Temporary repair of the rock capture fence has been completed, but this does not yet mean that climbing can resume in the area. The level of risk is still too high, and we still have other work to do based on recommendations given to us by our expert engineering consultants. This is a significant piece of work and so we don't have a timeline for this yet.
In the meantime, we thank you for your continued patience and co-operation."
BMC Comments:
The extended closure has a nominal expiry date of the of 31/03/25. At which point the restriction will have to be reviewed by the Relevant Authority and an extension applied for. In this case the Relevant Authority is the Forestry Commission, of whom Forestry England is an executive agency, so it seems likely this would not be denied. They've stated they won't prioritise the funding and have no fixed plans to carry out the work required to address the reasons for the closure, so the duration of the closure now appears indefinite at best.
While the restriction is in place the right of access under CRoW is suspended and climbers choosing to ignore it would therefore be trespassing.
Landowners cannot normally restrict CRoW access on the basis of hazards arising from natural features in the landscape.
The BMC have requested to see the report on which Forestry England have based their assessments and to be given a detailed rationale for the closure which overrides a previous in-principle agreement to open up some sections of the crag deemed of lower risk in this report. To date neither have been provided.
The geotechnical report will likely point out that these rocks as a natural feature of the landscape are prone to continual erosion, which by nature cannot be predicted with total certainty, whilst highlighting which areas appear most and least prone to further erosion. These are facts that are known to rock climbers and are worked with to a greater or lesser extent on all crags. Therefore the commission and use of a publicly unavailable geotechnical survey as justification for an open ended blanket ban by a major landowner represents a serious precedent for crag access generally.
Efforts will continue in the hope that at least partial crag opening can be achieved through addressing specific concerns where these can be justified.
The BMC does not consider the current restriction justified or proportionate.
*The case number quoted by FE here is incorrect. The correct case reference number is 202400132
from 30/10/2023
Climbing Area:
South West & Southern
Rock Type:
Limestone
Importance:
Regional
CRoW Land:
Yes
Ownership:
Forestry Commission
No. of Routes:
500
Within National Park:
No
Year Developed:
1958
Grid Reference:
SO560155
As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat when open is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.
Following the 2023 rockfall climbing is not advisable in the Russian Sector, the Black Tulip Sector, the Golden Fleece Sector and the Long Stone Area south of the Long Stone Pinnacle.
Restrictions apply from
1 March
-
30 June.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon , in the White Wall. Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse , inclusive, during the restricted period.
CRoW Information
Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.
Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website .
Group Advice
Much in demand for group use, but though convenient for instructors it's less well suited to the needs of students. It also creates severe problems of eroded crag-tops, polished routes, and over-crowding. Commercial organizations are required to pay a fee for use of the site.