Craig Melyn (Sychnant Pass)

Northern Limestone (Inland)

Small crag at the head of Sychnant pass, easily seen when driving up the pass from Capelulo / Dwygyfylchi. Park in the layby at the top of the pass (by the ice cream van in Summer) Walk towards Alltwen on a farm track. The crag is below the track on the left.Approach is awkward over loose pebble scree, and may vary with differing amounts of bracken / gorse growth; prickly!. The easiest appears to be to pass the top of the crag (having a quick look for belay anchor placements) then scramble down the far side and back along the foot of the cliff, monitoring for Kestrel activity in springtime. Alternatives include approaching between the first rocky outcrop and the main crag or dropping to the valley bottom and ascending the scree. None of these is pleasant!

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Igneous
Importance: Local CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 10
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SH 74867 77086

Restrictions apply from 1 February - 15 May.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting Ravens on the lower crag. Please avoid whole crag during nesting season. Ravens tend to fledge early (mid May).

Parking and Approach

The Craig Melyn crag complex is part of the Sychnant Pass Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and a Regionally Important Geological Site (RIGS). It is the usual nest site for the local Kestrel, and habitat for Sea Campion. (Note that another part of the Craig Melyn, the overhang, is the only local site of the nationally rare Lanceolate Spleenwort, Asplenium billottii).

Area information

This area includes Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment, Castle Inn, Penmaenhead as well as many other sports crags along the A55 corridor. Many of the crags, including Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment and Castle Inn all lie within land designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest, and vegetation removal, modification of rock faces, removal of rocks, etc. should be avoided.

Weather Information

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