Conwy Mountain

The Ormes

Very interesting slab above Conwy and ideal for beginners! Popular with groups especially the local outdoor centre - Oaklands. If just starting out and have rigging rope, you can bottom rope, but if up for the lead, head to the routes on the right as the final meter or two is a very nice cruxy finish with little protection! [We don't recommend that first leaders try badly-protected routes; this isn't a crag for first-time leaders - UKC Ed] At the top of the crag there are a few stakes in good condition! Probably ideal for abseil practice as there isnt many ledges or features and the stakes at the top are perfect for this. [nolo 10/06][CHECK ANY STAKE YOU MIGHT ABSEIL OFF. Can you kick it? Pull it? Is it metal, wood? Take care and back up your abseil anchors: use at least two independent ones, rigged so they don't have the deadly triangle of forces. And if you don't know what that is, don't abseil - UKC Ed]

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Volcanic
Importance: CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 10
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SH762778

Parking and Approach

No access problems known of. National trust land.
Area information

## Great Orme The Great Orme is a **Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI)** and a **Special Area of Conservation (SAC)**. Its wildlife and natural features are legally protected, so several access arrangements have been agreed between the BMC and Conwy County Borough Council to protect both climbers and the environment. ### Climbing Restrictions * **Upper Pen Trwyn (above the Marine Drive):** Climbing is only permitted **after 6:00 pm** during **Bank Holiday weekends** and the **summer holiday period (15 July–8 September)**. * **Seasonal bird restrictions:** Some crags below the Marine Drive are also closed during the bird nesting season. Please check the individual crag information before climbing. * **West Shore crags (including Craig Heulog):** Climbing is **not permitted** at any time due to their high conservation value. ### Conservation * Any proposed **new climbing routes** must be discussed with **Conwy Countryside Services**, as protected plants and wildlife occur throughout the Great Orme. * **Green marker posts** indicate areas open to climbing, while **red marker posts** mark restricted areas. See the *North Wales Limestone* guidebook for further details. ### Safety & Access * Use the **BMC-installed lower-off anchors** at Upper Pen Trwyn to avoid exiting via the unstable cliff top. * The **Marine Drive is one-way**. After climbing, **do not drive back towards the gatehouse**, as this could jeopardise continued climbing access. * Please park considerately. Do not block the Marine Drive, particularly near **Parisella's Cave**, as large vehicles, including double-decker buses, require access. ## Little Orme The public safety restrictions that apply to **Upper Pen Trwyn on the Great Orme** do **not** apply to the Little Orme. However, some crags are subject to **seasonal closures to protect nesting seabirds**. Please check the individual crag information before visiting.

Weather Information

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