Dartmoor
Lovely smooth grained granite and a perched setting above the Moretonhampstead Road. Some blocks require a rope and a trad rack.
The climbing is near to, but not on, a public footpath. The land owner/manager is generally quite friendly, however they have had issues with deer poaching, so please keep a low profile and leave if asked to.
Parking and Approach
Parking is tricky and needs to be done carefully, either on the verge (fully off the road), or in the layby shortly before the turning for Lustleigh (when coming from Bovey Tracey). The layby is often busy on Sundays. The footpath to the boulders leads off the main road about 50m on the Moretonhampstead side of the Lustleigh turning. Walk up the footpath to an open area which leads to a dirt track. Walk L along this until a gate leading into the wood can be seen. The boulders are up and R of this gate.
Part of the Dartmoor National Park is used by the MoD for training and live-firing exercises. It also offers a wealth of excellent hillwalking and numerous Tors, some of which still have the potential for new climbing development – especially wild bouldering. The Defence Estates endeavour to support public access (without compromising public safety and military training) and have produced a website with the important safety info and firing times. Follow this link http://www.dartmoor-ranges.co.uk/ for the Dartmoor training area homepage and links to detailed info.
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