User attention
17 August 2024 update: Peregrines did not breed or have all fledged. All restrictions for both seabirds and peregrine are now lifted.
A temporary ban had been put in place by the National Trust covering the cliffs between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, including major route locations up to and beyond the America Buttress. The ban has now been lifted so all sections are open.
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In the UK, Peregrine typically lay a first clutch of 3-4 eggs between 23 March to 28 April after which there is a 30-32 day incubation period then a 39 to 40 day fledging period (ref: BTO).
from 15/03/0025
Compact rock with some brilliant multi-pitch routes up to 350ft. Protection can be sparse, and pegs should always be treated with care. Aim for How The West Was Won (Severe), Supernatural (VS 4c), Sackful Of Clowns (HVS 5a), Journey to Ixtlan (HVS 4c), Alex of Gowla (E1 5b), Mercury Direct (E2 5b), Rainbow Games (E2 5b,The Tomb (E4 5c), The Awakening (E3 5c), America (E4 5c).
Climbing Area:
South West & Southern
Rock Type:
Igneous
Importance:
National
CRoW Land:
Yes
Ownership:
National Trust
No. of Routes:
167
Within National Park:
No
Year Developed:
Grid Reference:
SW698511
Parking and Approach
Tidal in most parts.From St Agnes on the N coast follow the minor coast road to a turning on the R. Follow rough track to parking areas near the old coastguard station. A new CC guide to the Atlantic Coast is in preparation. Currently details on the routes, abseil stations and descents are available in the CC 2000 North Devon and Cornwall guide, Rockfax Westcountry Climbs, CC South West Climbs vol1 or various social media sites including UKC.
There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag
There are no files associated with this crag