Forbidden Head

Pembroke South

Routes up to 120ft, though the best ones are at E4 and above (Hungary Heart E5 6b, Gorak E5 6b). 

A rock-fall has removed a large amount of rock towards the right-hand side, affecting Greenham Common, Sidewinder, Scud-U-Like and Firestreak. Further right on The Righthand Wall, all four routes are gone; Double Magnum Man, White Magnum, Voodoo Doll and Tomahawk.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 46
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SS083973

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 1 August.

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a new Chough Nest site near Hungry Heart so the following routes will be restricted unless the birds do not nest or until chicks have fledged. 'Gorak' to 'Sweet Dreams'. 

Parking and Approach

Tidal: accessible at half to low tide by traversing along the cliff base. Routes on the R side can be reached by abseil to an almost non-tidal ramp. At the W (right looking to sea) edge, scramble down an easy ridge at the far W edge.From the car park above the cliff walk to the low headland: takes a couple of minutes.

Area information

South Pembroke is one of the best sea cliff climbing areas in Britain featuring abseil approaches, amazing scenery, and a huge number of fantastic routes - it is also extremely important for wildlife, especially the nesting bird colonies. There are many special access arrangements and seasonal climbing restrictions. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. Pembrokeshire National Park produce a very useful leaflet with all the current restrictions- this is also available at the main car parks (St Govans, Stack Rocks, Broad Haven South and Stackpole Quey as well as in Mrs Weston's Cafe in Bosherton (note Pembroke nesting restrictions are complex and vary annually)). https://www.pembrokeshirecoast.wales/things-to-do/outdoor-activities/climbing/ Range East The area from St Govans East to Stack Rocks is part of a busy MoD firing range. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/castlemartin-firing-notice--2 West of Stack Rocks, the range is used for life firing. Range West Briefings 2025! Thursday 12th December 2024 at 18.00 Thursday 16th January 2025 at 18.00 Saturday 8th February 2025 at 09.00 Thursday 20th March 2025 at 18.00 Friday 18th April 2025 at 09.00 (Good Friday) Saturday 24th May 2025 at 09.00 Thursday 5th June 2025 at 18.00 Saturday 12th July 2025 at 09.00 Non-firing dates Christmas – last day of firing = Friday 6th December 2024 January – first day of firing = Monday 6th January 2025 Maintenance days = 14th & 17th February 2025 14th & 17th March 2025 Maintenance weeks (no firing) = 14th – 25th April 2025 Since Easter 2013 year round access is allowed to Range West for briefed climbers, only on non-firing days (normally most weekends and Bank holidays 2 weeks at Easter and 2 weeks at Christmas and most of August). LIVE high explosive ammunition is fired on Range West and it is paramount that climbers (and all users) stay away from and DO NOT touch anything metal. For the same reasons belay stakes should not be placed. If you think belay stakes are required please contact the BMC who can arrange for stakes to be placed in a safe manner.

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

Crag Update Feed

Use this feed to update other users about crag conditions or similar current information. Suggested updates to page information should be made using the ‘report a page issue’ button above.

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Submit
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
0

There are currently no comments, why not add your own?