Carn Gowla

Cornwall

Compact rock with some brilliant multi-pitch routes up to 350ft. Protection can be sparse, and pegs should always be treated with care. Aim for How The West Was Won (Severe), Supernatural (VS 4c), Sackful Of Clowns (HVS 5a), Journey to Ixtlan (HVS 4c), Alex of Gowla (E1 5b), Mercury Direct (E2 5b), Rainbow Games (E2 5b,The Tomb (E4 5c), The Awakening (E3 5c), America (E4 5c).

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Igneous
Importance: National CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: National Trust No. of Routes: 167
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SW698511

Restrictions apply from 15 March - 17 August.

Reason: Nesting Birds

CARN GOWLA RAD UPDATE 31.03.2025

 

The first auks and other seabirds are now arriving at their usual nesting sites on the cliffs of Carn Gowla. The list below shows which sections of the crag are open or restricted. (Please note names are those used in the current CC Definitive Guides, (1988 and 2000) and on UKC, but not all are included in the Rockfax or CC Selected Guides.

 

Restricted until further notice: 

Newdowns Head (The Skirmish to Bawden Cliff, including America Buttress.) 

 

 

Open but may change. Please check RAD before climbing:

St Agnes Head, Coastguard Cliff to Tubby’s Head (includes Mercury and Triple Buttress.)

Please note, restrictions will be applied if and when the peregrines appear to be nesting. Choughs have also been seen in the area. Both are Schedule 1 birds and protected from wilful disturbance under criminal law. The peregrines have not been seen so all sections from the Red Walls to Tubby’s Head, including Mercury and Triple Buttress are open for climbing. 

However, there may be herring gulls (now on the red list following losses from avian flu) present on the upper broken areas of Sewage Pipe Wall and Baptist Cliff.  If encountered, please complete your climb with as little interference as possible. 

These crags are also a sanctuary for much smaller birds such as rock pipits and stonechats, which may well build nests in the cracks and crevices of the buttresses and ground nesting birds such as meadow pipits and skylarks could be present on the heather and grass upper slopes, so please keep to paths wherever possible.

The BMC are arranging a survey by boat for all interested parties, weather permitting and the cliffs will be regularly visited and monitored by expert independent volunteers. Further updates will follow on from this.

Parking and Approach

Tidal in most parts.From St Agnes on the N coast follow the minor coast road to a turning on the R. Follow rough track to parking areas near the old coastguard station. A new CC guide to the Atlantic Coast is in preparation. Currently details on the routes, abseil stations and descents are available in the CC 2000 North Devon and Cornwall guide, Rockfax Westcountry Climbs, CC South West Climbs vol1 or various social media sites including UKC.

Group Advice

Not advised

Area information

Weather Information

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